The Snob Factor

A few nights ago I was having a simple dinner with my dad and I offered him a glass of Pinot Noir that I had left over from showing it to customers earlier in the day. The bottle was almost empty and the scant glass went down pretty fast. I had a little Chianti left too, so we finished the meal with that. He made the comment that the second wine was fine but he really liked the first wine because it was silky and easier to drink. Good assumption, dad! He did comment that he may have liked the Chianti better if he had tasted it first.

My dad is the classic example of his generation’s Everyman…a hard working Joe with a taste for the good life. He doesn’t really know anything about wine but he knows what he likes and in this case he liked the $50 Pinot Noir rather than the $7 Chianti. To answer the eternal question…yes, you can taste the difference. He may not have known why he liked the higher priced, higher quality wine, but he did. I could have gone into a lengthy monologue about the differences between the two wines, but I just let him enjoy his discovery.

My dad has a friend whose wife loves “pink Chablis” and it’s all she drinks, everyday. Is it my place as a wine professional to correct her, to tell her she is wrong and that Chablis comes only from Burgundy, France, and that what she drinks is a cheap imitation? No, of course not. I just ask her, “What do you like about it?” I give her the respect to enjoy what she is drinking.

Like what you know, and know what you like…is my favorite comment about wine. Yes, it is good to take a risk now and then, try new things, and experience the world of wine, but it is just fine to stick with what you enjoy. I enjoy trying new wines all the time. Not everyone feels that way.

Staring down a 100 bottle wine list in a restaurant can be daunting for anyone. Just what is Albarino or Carmenere, and why should I try it? Will is go with my dinner? Is it just a weird wine that the geeky wine director picked for fun? A well-written list with tasting notes and wine and food pairing hints makes selecting a wine much easier for most of us. Unfortunately, few wine directors take the time to write a list like that. And, most customers pretend they know more than they do about wine because nobody wants to appear stupid in front of their friends, the other guests, or the wait staff. These people often miss out on the pleasures of a really beautiful, be it obscure, bottle of wine.

People should take a moment to remember that they are in great company with the majority of Americans. Few people, wait staff included, know that much about wine. It has simply not been a part of our culture to learn about wine and to consume wine regularly. For the most part, we don’t grow up tasting watered down wine with Sunday dinner with our families. That is changing in many pockets of society, but I doubt that wine in America will ever reach the exalted levels it finds in centuries old cultures like Italy, Spain, or France. I wonder, do people even have Sunday dinner with their families anymore?

There are some elitist type, wine and restaurant industry people who fiercely hold onto the idea that wine is strictly a luxury item, which tends to alienate the very people who support them. These are the people who talk down to their guests or clientele. These are the people who write lofty and irrelevant wine articles and blogs that only other industry people can understand. These are the people that treat wine like it is really something special, reserved only for those individuals willing to pay for the status of claiming to have a cellar full of collectible vintages they will never enjoy because they let them go too long. Wine should never be a platform for demeaning people.

Don’t get me wrong, I think wine is special…so special that I have devoted my life to devouring every word I can read on the subject. I spend my days tasting wines and my nights dreaming about my next wine experience. I plan my life around wine and spend my vacations visiting vineyards and exploring restaurants for their wine and food pairing adventures. Nevertheless, my beloved wine is simply sauce, created to accompany food, to enhance the flavor and pleasurability of the dining experience. It shouldn’t matter if you are eating your favorite Thursday night staple of a quick pasta dish or dining in an elegant restaurant. There is a perfect wine to fit the bill.

Like what you know, and know what you like.

Ma muse, le vin

Wine is my muse and has been the muse to many writers from the early Chinese poets, to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks. The Roman playwrights and historians detailed their affair with wine. Italian monks and French priests labored over the vines and the pages in their journals discussing wine. Historians, politicians, diplomats, poets, artists, courtesans, society ladies, trustifarians, actors, filmmakers, and musicians, have all discussed the finer and lesser attributes of their muse, wine.

Wine is a feminine, eretheal goddess who has transcended time and culture. She is sultry, perfumed, glimmering, and exquisite. She entices and seduces the least expecting victim with her luscious charms. Even when she takes on a charismatic and masculine guise, she is still sensual and succulent and beautiful. She can be girlishly sweet and joyfully bubbly. She can have a sharp and acidic laugh or a sturdy if slightly bitter way about her. In her older years she tends to be mellow, warm and comforting. She is always inviting. She nourishes and she gives life. She reduces the stresses and inhibitions of the day. She is greatly misunderstood and often she appears to be complicated. In reality she is very simple. She just wants to be loved, respected, and appreciated for exactly who and what she is, nothing more and nothing less. She is always looking for someone new, but she never forgets her old friends. Once you have been tangled in her delicate web of inky mystery you may never be able to wrestle free. You will be hers forever.

My New Pair of Old Jeans

Recently, I was in Portland, Oregon, working with The Wine Academy of Spain on a three day Spanish Wine Certification Course. This was the second city of a brief, four city, west coast tour. These classes are all day long, intense, and tend to be fairly disorganized. This particular venue was quite nice and the staff was fairly well prepared for the event. They pre-sorted and catalogued all 200 bottles of wine. The tables were laid out classic banquet style instead of our usual classroom set up. They were dressed prettily, as if for a wedding. The wine glasses were huge balloon type goblets and were completely inappropriate for a wine tasting. We needed new glasses.

A student offered to bring us 100 new Reidel professional tasting glasses from his Tiki and Wine Bar. We took a mini break and I continued working on tying up every loose detail for the remainder of the tour. This is a job that is never finished and is always changing with every moment. It keeps me flexible and on my toes. The student returned with the new glasses, the tables were reset in a flash and the show continued on flawlessly.

By the end of the second day, my partner Esteban, and I were feeling a bit exhausted. The students always like to take us out on the town to show off their city and Portland would be no different. Portland has a fantastic restaurant scene. As we were cleaning up, Esteban tossed me a bag of Honey & Almond Nougat candies, knocking over two full glasses of red wine, which splashed down my legs soaking my blue jeans purple. I squealed and we laughed. Quickly I realized I had nothing to wear to Davis Street Tavern but an inappropriately formal dress. The same student chimed in that he used to be a jeans broker and had a supply in various cuts, styles, and brands. He asked my size and promised to deliver a pair to my hotel in time for the dinner. Relief.

I washed my jeans out in the tub in my hotel room. Hand washing jeans is no delicate task. Luckily I had a balcony and hung the sopping wet mess in the hot and humid Portland air to dry. It was going to take forever. So I wrapped myself in my robe and turned on the shower. Looking down at my purple stained thighs I laughed to myself. Someone was knocking at my door. “Hmmmm,” I wondered to myself, “Someone must have the wrong door.” I heard the knocking again so I tightened my robe and answered the door. To my surprise, there stood the student, grinning and clutching a pair of jeans. Shocked I said hello, I hadn’t expected a personal courier. I thought he’d leave them at the front desk for me. How did he get my room number? He pushed his way into my room, thrusting the jeans into my hands. I was completely shocked. “Ok,” I said very cautiously, “Let me try them on.” They looked suspiciously like a well-worn pair of men’s jeans but they were very cool Ben Sherman button fly’s from London. So, I popped into the bathroom locking the door and pulled on the baggy in all the wrong places, quite obviously not women’s jeans, jeans. I looked like I had a package where I clearly do not. I slid on my tee shirt and walked into my suite to thank the student for the effort and to show him that the jeans were a moderate success. As I rounded the corner, I stopped short, I gasped, and exclaimed, “What in the hell are you doing!”

There he was, sprawled across my bed his clothes strewn on my floor. “I thought you might want some company, it must be lonely on tour for so long,” he stammered, grinning like some sort of deranged hyena. I spun around facing the wall and answered, “No, no I do not, you have got to go, now. I need to take a shower and get ready for dinner, and you have got to go.” He had the balls to say, “Can I join you? You are the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. I just want to join you.” I walked over to the door and flung it opened, standing next to it motioning for him to leave. He wriggled back into his clothes and wandered out the opened door, which I promptly slammed on his ass! I shook my head and said out loud, to myself, “What in the hell is wrong with people.”

I dolled myself up in an edgy top and great heels, and I looked ok in the jeans at the dinner. I avoided the student’s acidic stare and bitter little comments. I mingled with the students and later over beers I told Esteban the story. He was not pleased at all but we had a good laugh.

About a week later, once I had returned home, I received a text from the student. He told me to keep the jeans in exchange for the highest score on the exam, which would qualify him for the free trip to Spain in the fall. Now, I have nothing to do with the grades for the exam but I suggested to Esteban that he fail him for unprofessional conduct and attempting to bribe me with his old jeans. But, I kept the jeans anyway.

The Wine of Ancient Rome

2,700 years ago, on the slopes of Mount Falerna near Campania and Latuim in Southern Italy, Aglianico grapes basked in the sun in three very special vineyards. The first vineyard was known as the Caucinian Falernian and was located on the highest slopes, the second vineyard was the Falerian found on the lowest slopes; and between the two vineyards rested the third the prized Faustian Falerian vineyard. These precious vineyards were owned by Roman aristocracy for millennia and are still under vine today. The Phoenecians cultivated the grape in Greece. During the 7th or 8th BCE the Greeks brought the grapes to Italy.

Falerian wine made from these ancient Aglianico grapes, from the Faustus vineyard were the world’s first Premier Cru, and were reserved for the extremely wealthy and important members of Roman society. It was a wine of legend and heritage, written about by famous poets, philosophers, scholars, and historians. The grapes were harvested late in the season and had tremendous levels of sugar resulting in a sweet wine with very high alcohol content. The wine was left to oxidize for up to twenty years in clay amphorae vessels. The potent sugar and alcohol content of the wine made it age worthy and suitable for travel. The Roman legions carried Falerian throughout Europe and as far north as Britian. Pliny the Elder commented, “It is the only wine that takes light when a flame is applied to it.” He also described a particular banquet honoring Julius Caesar in 60 BCE where the famed “Opimian vintage of 121 BCE” was served. That vintage was an exclusive Falerian and was one of the finest wines ever created.

Aglianico grapes are deep purple, hearty, and full of potent flavors. In Basilicata, they thrive in the volcanic soils of the extinct volcano, Mount Vulture, and on the hills near Taurasi in Campania. The commoners of Rome drank a crude red wine pressed from these grapes. The rustic, inky black wine was superior in tannins and in acidity. It had flavors of smoky ash from the volcanic soils and bright red fruit from the abundant sunshine. Legend claims this is the wine offered to Jesus before his crucifixion and the same wine that Mary Magdalene dabbed to his lips as he was dying. We will never know.

What we do know is that this lovely little grape is still growing in these same vineyards in the southern most regions of Italy. Eighty years ago two winemaking families began to produce modern wines from Aglianico grapes grown on Mount Vulture vineyards. The two most prominent regions for Aglianico in Italy are in Campania, where it is known as Taurasi DOCG, and Basilicata, where it is known as Aglianico del Vulture DOC. Until very recently, Donato D'Angelo and Paternoster were the only two producers of Aglianico del Vultures available in the U.S. Feudi is a new leader in the Aglianico game. Now, Aglianico is springing up on wine lists and in wine boutiques across Denver.


D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture $35
D’Angelo Scaravite $16
Pasternoster Aglianico del Vulture Don Anselmo $41
Rubrato Aglianico dei Feudi di San Gregorio $22
Taurasi dei Feudi di San Gregorio $40
Feudi di San Gregorio Ros’Aura $15


Full body, tannic, acidic
Smoky, black plums, black cherries, dried cocoa, violets, and rose petals
Fantastic with rustic, wood fired pizza, or lean grilled meats

Come quickly, I am drinking the stars…

New Year’s Eve holds a certain magic for me. It is one of my favorite occasions. It is a new beginning and a fresh start. The trials and tribulations of the previous year simply dissolve into the past. Everything is left behind and washed away with a glass of champagne and a kiss at midnight. I love the symbolism, but mostly, I love the champagne.

I rang in the New Year at the Wine Loft. Perrier Jouët sponsored our celebration. Fleur de Champagne is the cuvee de tête by Perrier Jouët and one of my personal favorites. It is actually the reason I got into the wine business in the beginning. I fell in love with the wine. Founded in 1811 by lovers Nicholas Perrier and Adèle Jouët, the wine has become a symbol for romance and love. The champagne house was an instant success exporting their wine to England, America, and Russia where the heads of State and Royalty enjoyed the champagne. It was ever present on the table of Napolean III. In 1854 Perrier Jouët was the first to make the now favored Brut style. The beautiful bottles with hand painted anemone flowers by famed Art Noveau artist Emile Gallé were first introduced in 1902. The first vintage of La Belle Epoque as the Fleur is known in France, a Brut style, was the 1964 vintage. It was released in 1969. Perrier Jouët Fleur de Champagne Brut is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Perrier Jouët also makes Fleur de Champagne Rosé and the amazing Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs which is pure Chardonnay.

I drank a few glasses of Fleur last night. The Fleur is the pinnacle of elegance and style in luxury champagnes. I love Dom Perignon and Tattinger but Fleur has my heart. The nose presents a very fine yet subtle perfume of freesia, gardenia, white rose petals, and ripe white peaches. On the palate the tiny, firm bubbles explode with luscious guava, pink grapefruit, lemon chiffon and a sprinkling of ginger. The acidity is well balanced with the body and flavor profile of the wine. It is truly exquisite.

My favorite wine salesman, Charles, brought a group of his friends in to drink champagne and celebrate. We drank a few glasses of the PJ Brut together. It was delicious. Perrier Jouët Brut is a lovely, feminine style champagne with fine, golden bubbles and a delicate nose of white flowers, spring blossoms, and peaches. The wine has a pronounced acidity that glides over your tongue with notes of crushed hazelnuts, apricots, green apples, and minerality. It pairs well with briny oysters, succulent mussels, caviar, and salty, golden, warm, french fries. Last night it paired really well with a champagne flute, a gorgeous man, and a kiss at midnight.

Pink champagne and gray skies

It’s Thanksgiving 2008, and I am pondering my luck and my life. I feel incredibly thankful today. I have a wonderful little dog and cat whom I completely adore. I have a sound and supportive relationship with both of my parents. My mom spent the afternoon with me and my dad dropped by for a nice glass of wine and a chat. They got along….
I made a wonderful dinner. I made turkey breast and duck rolls stuffed with gorgonzola, chanterelle mushrooms, shallots, and wrapped in smoky bacon. I served them over fresh spinach and with fingerling potatoes drizzled with white truffle oil. I also served whipped yams with fresh ginger and coconut milk, spicy cranberries, and a lovely little cheese plate with a goat chevre and a smoked sheep san simon. My mom brought this amazing walnut and chocolate cake and pots au crème chocolat…delicious. We had this most amazing bottle of Gosset Reserve Rosé Champagne. Possibly one of the most fabulous wines I have ever had….mmmmm.
It was a beautiful day today. The kind I crave…the sky was hazy and gray diffusing the light in such a way that made everything look slightly violet and luminous. The air was cool and slightly humid. I imagine Paris looks and feels like this in late autumn. Oscar and I walked around for hours this morning. We met a new friend of mine for coffee on Larimer. He is a bit older than me, but a lot of fun. He grew up in Manhattan but likes living in Denver. He loves Clapton, traveling, fantastic cuisine, and pop culture. He walked with us and I could tell he just wanted to spend time with me. He seems a little bit sheepish and bashful which is unusual in a man of his age and stature. He seems like a really nice guy, and he has treated me like a lady, like a woman. I like it. It feels great.
I was telling my mom a little bit about him and mentioned that I am not really physically attracted to him and she said the most brilliant thing. “Maybe you should just forget about that physical thing, the gorgeous men you have dated have been nothing but trouble, and shallow, and it never works out anyway…maybe it is time to date a nice, and successful older man that adores you.”
Maybe she is right..(she is always right)..and I think I will consider it. He is really into me, thoughtful, considerate, and generous. Let’s see where it goes.

European Rosé

For me, September is a whirlwind tour of wine country. I go to daily wine tastings sometimes taste a hundred wines in one day. It can be wonderfully overwhelming and deliciously intoxicating. I must try to remember it is still work, it’s my job and I take it very seriously.

When I am tasting wines I am required to over think and analyze each and every wine I try. When I am relaxing with a nice glass of wine I still tend to analyze what is in the glass. Probably, the most enjoyable part of tasting wine is the wine and food pairing possibilities. I love to play with flavor and my senses to discover delectable and unique combinations. Over the course of the past several years I have developed a portfolio of pairings that seem to work regardless of vintage, region, and season.
I will share seasonal suggestions and wine and food pairings with you.

As for September, here in Denver, the days are still quite warm and dry and the nights cool down. The leaves on the trees are beginning to turn gorgeous hues of yellow, orange, and even plumy red. Late summer flowers like marigolds, mums, petunias, and roses are in full bloom. It’s not quite full bodied, earthy, pungent red wine weather. I compromise this time of year with full flavored, medium bodied, European Rosé. Some European Rosé can be musty, herbal, and woodsy along with showing nice ripe red berries and fruits. They can really represent what early fall means, right in the glass. These wines make an excellent choice for drinking cocktail style or pairing with your favorite representations of the harvest’s bounty. Foods like roasted root vegetables, squash, onions gratin, corn on the cob slathered in butter and sprinkled with garlic and pepper, or even a simple roasted chicken with red potatoes and crunchy green beans all taste better with European Rosé.